By ‘high risk,’ he explains, it is research that will take years and which might not in the end, do what we hope. In Snowberry’s case though, that R&D, carried out under Dr Badenhorst’s leadership at the University of Auckland, resulted in a world-first breakthrough in peptide transfer. “What that means, is that we found a way to include peptides that are critically important to skin health, into a serum in such a way that rather than sit uselessly on top of the skin, it is rapidly absorbed into the skin’s cellular matrix. This is a hugely important development and as far as we know, an advance not shared with any other skin care product.”
So, ‘Science,’ in skin care means really doing science, and not pretending, says Soraya. “It’s very easy to fool consumers into thinking that there’s genuine science in a skin care product, and that’s partly because most of us, and I include myself, don’t really understand what the science of peptides means. In this respect, I, like most women, have to take the word of independent experts. After all, we can hardly take the word of the skin care brand itself! And that’s the main reason that we gave our New Radiance Face Serum with CuPEP™ to Dermatest Medical Research Institute in Germany, and requested a gold standard clinical trial.”
Dr Badenhorst explains that a gold standard clinical trial, is the only standard of evidence that dermatologists and other scientists will accept. It means that the measured effect, for example, a reduction of wrinkle volume, is unlikely to be by chance.
“I think that’s wonderful!" says Soraya. “Before I started Snowberry, one of my greatest frustrations was not knowing what to believe. Some brands suggested they could reduce lines and wrinkles by 90%! Some suggested that their ‘miracle ingredient,’ that was so secret no-one could even know what it was, would turn back the clock by decades…and some simply use scientific terminology to bamboozle.”
Before Dr Badenhorst joined Snowberry, he was a pharmacist, and that experience he says, causes him to be very sympathetic to the plight of beauty salespeople in pharmacies. “Because you’re selling skin care in a pharmacy, consumers do expect to get expert advice. But pharmacy salespeople are often in much the same boat as their customers – they have to take at face value what skin care brands are telling them.”